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REVIEW | Mercator-Orteliushuis in Antwerp

June 2024: Oscar and I meet in person for the first time, in London. September 2025: I visit Oscar in Denver, Colorado. October 2025: by coincidence, we’re in Japan at the same time and we visit Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture together. September and October 2026: Oscar visits Europe, specifically Belgium, the Netherlands, and Switzerland. Together we visit some Belgium essentials which are reachable by train: Antwerp, Bruges, Dinant, Brussels, and Ghent.

Ask Oscar him about Antwerp’s history and you will quickly discover that there are some rather large gaps. And it is not just Antwerp. His knowledge of Belgium and, more broadly, the Low Countries is fairly limited. This is not surprising because why would he have learned this at school in the United States?

That makes the Mercator-Ortelius House or Mercator-Orteliushuis on Kloosterstraat an interesting proposition.

Since the beginning of the year, I had been seeing advertisements for it regularly on social media. They were clearly aimed at people who want an ‘experience’ rather than a traditional museum visit. I was curious enough to find out what exactly they had created, and suggested to Oscar that we go and have a look.

The Mercator-Ortelius House is, at least in theory, an ideal place to start. The building is a rare survivor from Antwerp’s 16th-century Golden Age, when the city was one of Europe’s major centres of international trade, printing, science and culture. The oldest parts date back to 1477. The house grew around an inner courtyard and acquired a fourth wing in 1698, when it was given a Baroque makeover.

It is quite an impressive building in its own right. Protected as a monument since 1946, it spent decades closed to the public. Between 2021 and 2024 it was restored and transformed into a new attraction, opening its doors again in 2026.

Mercator and Ortelius

The Mercator-Ortelius House takes its name from two of the great cartographers of the 16th century. Abraham Ortelius was born in Antwerp in 1527 and is best known for Theatrum Orbis Terrarum, first published in Antwerp in 1570. It is generally regarded as the first modern atlas.

There is, however, a small problem with the name of the attraction: Ortelius never actually lived in this house. His home was nearby, in a building that has since disappeared.

Still, the connection makes sense in a broader way. Ortelius belonged to the Antwerp of printers, publishers, merchants, artists and scientists. It was a city where information travelled almost as quickly as goods, and where maps were becoming an increasingly important way of making sense of a rapidly expanding world.

That is the Antwerp the Mercator-Ortelius House wants to introduce.

And for Oscar, who has none of this background, that is probably more important than the historical connection between Ortelius and the building itself.

Antwerp’s Golden Age

This isn’t a conventional museum. You won’t find room after room of display cases containing old maps and objects with lengthy descriptions next to them.

Instead, the six monumental rooms have been turned into an audiovisual experience. Large-scale projections, sound effects, music and other technology are used to tell the story of 16th-century Antwerp.

We move through the building while Antwerp’s story unfolds around us.

There is the wealth generated by international trade, with goods arriving from all over Europe and beyond. There is the printing industry, which helped Antwerp become an important centre for the production and distribution of knowledge. There is cartography and the changing understanding of the world. And then there is religion and politics, which provide a much darker counterpoint to the city’s prosperity.

The Iconoclastic Fury of 1566 gets its own place in the story. Religious tensions and political upheaval eventually helped tear apart the relatively prosperous world that the exhibition has just introduced us to.

For someone who already knows Antwerp’s history, none of this is particularly revolutionary. For someone who doesn’t, it provides a useful crash course.

And that, I suspect, is exactly the point.

A cat saves Antwerp

The common thread running through the experience is not, however, Abraham Ortelius, Gerardus Mercator or even the Scheldt. It is Gingerwick (Fluwijn, Velours, Canelo). He is a fat ginger cat who appears throughout the story and, in his own slightly ridiculous way, helps save Antwerp. It is a charming device, although it does occasionally make the whole thing feel more like a children’s attraction than a history experience aimed at adults.

There is also a large LEGO model of Antwerp’s Cathedral of Our Lady in the entrance. It is an unexpected sight when you have just walked into a centuries-old building and probably says something about the attraction’s approach: this is history, but it isn’t particularly interested in presenting it solemnly.

Gingerwick.

Does it work?

I am always slightly sceptical about these kinds of experiences.

There has been a growing trend towards immersive attractions built around famous artists, historical figures and fictional characters. Think of the experiences devoted to Vincent van Gogh, Gustav Klimt or Tintin. They can be spectacular, but spectacle and historical understanding are not necessarily the same thing.

The Mercator-Ortelius House is certainly spectacular at times. The projections work particularly well when they make you feel as if you are standing inside the story rather than simply watching it on a screen.

The use of artificial intelligence is less convincing. There are moments when it feels slightly gimmicky, and I occasionally found myself wondering whether the technology was being used because it genuinely improved the story or simply because it was available.

But perhaps I am approaching it from the wrong direction.

If you already know Antwerp’s history, this is unlikely to fundamentally change your understanding of the city. If you arrive knowing very little about Antwerp, Belgium or the Low Countries in the 16th century, however, the experience gives you a framework.

Oscar certainly fits into that second category. He doesn’t need a detailed lecture about the political structure of the Habsburg Netherlands or an explanation of every stage of the Reformation. He just wants to understand why Antwerp became so important, why people such as Ortelius mattered, why maps and printing were revolutionary and why the city’s Golden Age eventually came to an end.

The Mercator-Ortelius House manages to get most of that across without asking him to spend three hours reading labels.

LEGO cathrdral.

And perhaps that is the real strength of the place.

It isn’t really a museum about Mercator or Ortelius. It is an introduction to 16th-century Antwerp, wrapped in an immersive experience and featuring a ginger cat.

For visitors who already know the story, it is an entertaining way of seeing it presented differently. For visitors who don’t, it may be a rather good place to start.

The end.

Art and museums in Antwerp

🇧🇪 Blogger, keen vexillologist, train conductor NMBS/SNCB, traveller, F1 follower, friend of Dorothy.

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